Singapore: Grilled fish on a bed of numbing chillis and peppercorns from Chongqing, cumin-laced lamb skewers from Xinjiang, and fiery rice noodles flavored with snails from Guangxi are part of a new wave of Chinese cuisine that is capturing the hearts and taste buds of Singaporeans and global travelers alike.
According to BBC, Chinese food is experiencing a renaissance outside China, driven by intense competition and success back home. Singapore, where ethnically Chinese people constitute more than three-quarters of the multicultural population, has become a focal point for this culinary expansion. The city-state’s vibrant food scene is a test kitchen for these new Chinese restaurants, from established chains to mom-and-pop stores and chic eateries that challenge traditional stereotypes.
One significant player in this movement is Luckin, China's answer to Starbucks, which opened its first overseas store in Singapore in March 2023. Since then, the brand has expanded to over 60 locations in Singapore and recently made its US debut with two stores in New York. Alongside Luckin, five major Chinese brands now operate 124 outlets in Singapore, doubling their presence since 2023.
The success of these restaurants in Singapore serves as a "proof of concept" for further global expansion, according to Thomas DuBois, a historian of modern China. Singapore's diverse demographic and status as a travel hub make it an ideal location for testing new culinary offerings before venturing into other markets in Southeast Asia and beyond.
Entrepreneurs behind this culinary wave aim to showcase the vast diversity of Chinese cuisine, moving beyond the ubiquitous dumplings and hot pot. Visitors to Singapore, including many ethnic Chinese from neighboring countries, bring a sophisticated understanding of Chinese culinary traditions, which these new restaurants aim to satisfy.
Nong Geng Ji, a chain from Hunan in central China, is one such example. Known for its spicy dishes with a tangy aftertaste, the chain has opened several outlets in Singapore, Malaysia, Canada, and is eyeing further expansion into Thailand, Japan, South Korea, and the US. This growing appetite for Chinese dishes, especially those featuring chillis, aligns with the culinary preferences of China's former leader, Mao Zedong, who famously believed in the revolutionary power of eating chillis.
Beyond the fiery dishes, these new restaurants offer a more authentic taste of Chinese cuisine, contrasting with the simplified "Chinese food" that gained popularity in the West through Chinese immigrants. The traditional dishes have often been replaced with Western-friendly versions, leading to a misrepresentation of China's rich culinary culture.
Fuchsia Dunlop, a British food writer, in her book "Invitation to a Banquet," highlights how these adaptations clouded appreciation of Chinese gastronomy. However, with a growing diaspora and adventurous global palates, Chinese restaurants are increasingly able to stay true to their culinary roots.
The Green Tea Restaurant chain, with over 400 outlets in China, is set to open its first location in Singapore, offering diners an immersive experience with traditional Chinese music and decor. The chain's vice-president, Thomas Tao, aims to correct misconceptions about Chinese cuisine's quality and cultural richness.
This culinary expansion is not just about food but also about cultural diplomacy. As Dunlop suggests, transforming Beijing's controversial Confucius Institutes into top-notch Chinese restaurants could be a more effective form of soft power. Despite international challenges, including trade disputes and espionage allegations, this culinary outreach may serve as a form of modern diplomacy akin to the historic ping-pong diplomacy of the 1970s.
Felix Ren, director of Singapore-based food consultancy WeMedia, emphasizes the pride Chinese people take in their culinary culture and sees this as a potential diplomatic tool. As these new Chinese restaurants continue to gain traction globally, they may indeed become the new ambassadors of Chinese culture and diplomacy.